Wednesday, July 15, 2009

What Israel did not want me to see

Today I embarked on a journey to spend one week in the country of jordan, which is one of america'a strongest allies in the region. It started with me waking up at 4 am to catch a taxi to the port of exit to leave Palestine. For Palestinians, there is only one way to exit the West Bank, and that is the Allenby bridge. If they want to fly to a foreign country, visit relatives in another area like Egypt, or anything involving some place outside of the west bank, Palestinians (including those that are American citizens with Palestinian ethnic identity) must go through a very tedious process. We arrived at some sort of bus station, and I befriended a man who spoke very good English who offered to help me. We had to pull up and get a number, not too bad you would think, except I was number 769 in line. I went in the station and there were hundreds of people, young and old, sitting and standing and waiting. The Israelis only keep the border open from 8am to 5pm or so, so they must be ready and waiting to move when the Israelis open it. If you think it is hard to travel to foreign countries, you have never experienced what can only be described as the misery involved in passing to jordan through the west bank. First, once we finally got on bus, we had to pay a $30 tax or so just for leaving. This tax is on top of the $20 fee the Jordanians require. So the bus goes to the Palestinian checkpoint, they scan you, and let you pass rather quickly. Then you must get back on the bus, and go to the Israeli part of the checkpoint. You get off the bus again and go to their bus station. I followed my Palestinian friend, who helped me navigate the multistep process and the stress that came with people in uniform constantly taking my passport and disappearing for a while. Anyway, I went in the line with the Palestinians, which is the part that the Israelis did not want me to see. They say you are supposed to respect your elders, but I saw people as young or younger than myself treat senior citizens with contempt, disrespect, and rudeness. They shouted orders at people five times their age, and most of the Israeli guards were quite unpleasant, particularly the one who saw my passport i was holding and yelled at me that i had to go somewhere else as my friend was about to get on the bus. She ignored me for a while, and was quite unpleasant. When I asked for my passport back, I received the reply of its not my problem. The girl who finally hepled me out was the only kind person I met at the terminal. She took me to another location, and said that since I was American I had to pay $5 more than the Palestinians. I held my tongue, but I was thinking in my head that it is quite funny that the Israelis want me as an American to pay them $5 more for leaving a territory they occupy when every United States citizen indirectly gives Israel $10 every year in the form of foreign aid. I felt like saying, ok if you want me to pay you more sheckels and you treat me like this, maybe you can return the $3 billion the US gives you every year and we'll call it even.

There were two terminals, one for Palestinians and one for tourists. The one for tourists was quick, no lines, people were nice, and it had a very friendly and peaceful atmosphere. The Palestinian corridor however, was full of downright meaness. I understand that there is a conflict here, but at the same time, it wasn't right what they were doing to someone's grandparents. They wanted foreigners to see the nice, pretty, smiling face Israel, not the intense face they show all the Palestinians. After suffering humiliation, the Israelis then expect Palestinians to get on a bus again and wait in the heat for an indeterminant period of time that can last up to several hours, just because they have the power to make you wait. Finally, we got to the Jordanian border, and I received help from Palestinians on how to get to the central taxi station in Amman, where I connected with my hosts in Amman, the capital city of Jordan. One of their family members goes to school with me at University of Florida. I am glad to be in friendly hands again. Although generalizations are dangerous, for the most part, my positive experiences here in the holy land have been the result of Arab generosity and graciousness, and most of my angst has been at the hands of Israelis, and I only spent one day in Israel proper so far. One thing is for sure, the hospitality I have been shown in the Arab households I have stayed in has far exceeded my expectations. They are probably the kindest people I have run in to, as far as respecting visitors. It's part of the culture here. I am now planning on taking a trip to the historical parts of Jordan.

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